Prints have been ubiquitous in the fashion industry for some time now, and it looks like they will be with us for a few more seasons. Our Creative Director, Katja Hahnloser-Nageshwaran, presents the details of how patterns can be applied and other techniques combined to transform designs and cuts into true works of art.
Seamless Prints
Seamless prints – or all-over prints – are arrangements that allow large areas to be printed without visible transitions where the arrangement repeats. This works in the same way as wallpaper and allows fabrics to be printed over large areas. The printed fabrics are cut and processed. This method is particularly popular for floral patterns, such as those used by Saloni.
Placed Prints
Placed prints differ from all-over prints in that the placement of the elements on the final garment is carefully defined. This is very complex, as the print has to be printed exactly on the patterns before processing. The placement also has to be adjusted to the clothing size, otherwise it will shift. The choice of placement allows the pieces to be particularly beautiful and high-quality, for example through symmetrical elements in the back, embellishment of the edges or flattering lines.
Jacquard
Jacquards are patterns or elements woven into the fabric. Jacquards come in numerous different designs — from silk to knit to brocade. Jacquard patterns look particularly luxurious because they are not just superficially applied to the fabric, but are woven into it.
Embroidery
Embroidered elements are particularly suitable for embellishment. A distinction is made between hand embroidery and machine embroidery. The hand method allows for a greater variety of techniques. The elements can be designed to be more three-dimensional and additionally decorated with sequins or beads. The machine allows for more consistency in the different elements and can sometimes better match the desired result. Embroidery allows for incredible variation and transforms each piece into a small work of art.
Patchwork
For patchworks, different fabrics with different prints or colors are combined to achieve the desired look. This can result in particularly interesting designs. The placement of the transitions and fabric elements is particularly important so that the resulting combination not only looks good, but the fabrics also move well on the body.
Combinations
The described techniques are often combined to achieve a particularly elaborate result. Etro, for example, often combines jacquard fabrics with placed prints. This is often only noticeable on closer inspection, but gives the fabric a special effect even from a distance. Embroidery is also often applied to prints to give the fabric more impact.
Katja Hahnloser-Nageshwaran
Katja Hahnloser-Nageshwaran and her brother are the owners and managing directors of Maison Gassmann. In addition to designing the product range, she is the creative mind behind our visual and textual presence, both digital and analog. Besides fashion and design, she is a passionate amateur photographer, travels a lot, is an employee of her dog Noé, and commutes regularly between India and Switzerland with her partner.
